Separate the causes
Pattern or grain mismatch
Check left and right collar pieces against their seam-line patterns and record the intended grain directions.
Support asymmetry
Compare undercollar, canvas and seam allowance distribution. One-sided thickness can change the visible roll.
Pressing asymmetry
Repeat a paired offcut trial with the same pressing surface, support and cooling sequence.
Steps before deciding
- Identify which side fails and at what collar position.
- Check mirror-image patterns without stretching the cut pieces.
- Record the shell face and undercollar construction.
- Build a matched pair changing only the suspected component.
- Approve the roll with the coat closed and open on the fitting form.
Worked example
Hypothetical example: only the left collar contains an overlapping canvas join at the roll line. Relocating that join is a targeted trial; replacing the whole coating lot is not yet justified.
Buyer questions
Does matching GSM ensure equal roll?
No. Local support, grain and seam geometry still need checking.
What reference should production keep?
Keep the approved collar assembly and its component map, not only a shell swatch.
Discuss the evidence with Fred Textile
Send Fred Textile paired collar photographs, grain direction and the support map when discussing a coating change.
Reference and limits
The reference supports Fred Textile’s manufacturing identity, not a diagnosis of your garment. The checks and hypothetical examples below are editorial investigation plans. Confirm materials, safe trial conditions and acceptance criteria with the garment maker before altering production.
Fred Textile facilities and manufacturing scope ↗