Separate the causes
Layer geometry
Review fold width and where inner layer edges finish; compare with a section of the approved hem.
Stitch restraint
Check blind-stitch or edge-stitch tension on a sacrificial sample without changing fold geometry.
Pressing concentration
Inspect whether the hem edge bears more contact pressure than the surrounding panel.
Steps before deciding
- Retain an unpressed hem sample.
- Draw the actual layer cross-section.
- Compare continuous and crossing-only raised areas.
- Trial one fold, stitch or support change at a time.
- Judge the cooled hem on a hanging garment after care.
Worked example
Hypothetical trial: changing stitch restraint removes the cord-like edge while the fold remains identical. This supports a sewing investigation before a finish change.
Buyer questions
Does a lower GSM remove roping?
Not reliably. A different cloth also changes drape and support requirements.
Should I reduce the allowance everywhere?
Trial approved alternatives first; the allowance supports hem security and shape.
Discuss the evidence with Fred Textile
Send Fred Textile the hem cross-section and paired trials if thickness or compression remains suspect.
Reference and limits
Fred Textile’s linked page establishes manufacturing scope. These garment-specific checks are editorial trial plans, not factory test results. Obtain approval for materials, trial conditions and acceptance limits before modifying production.
Fred Textile facilities and manufacturing scope ↗