Separate the causes
A versus B: what processing changes
Apply the agreed heat, pressure and moisture route to B without interlining. After cooling and the agreed resting period, compare width, length, shade, nap and handle with A.
B versus C: what the combination adds
Process C with the selected interlining. Check glue visibility, stiffness and bond using the agreed method. A difference is an investigation signal, not proof of which component caused it.
Small swatch versus coat panel
A flat sample does not approve a lapel or front. Make a representative panel with actual seams and facing, then assess shape and the intended care route before releasing bulk cutting.
Steps before deciding
- Identify article, colour, roll, fabric face, grain direction, interlining code and adhesive lot on each sample.
- Record sample dimensions, machine, actual monitored conditions, dwell time and moisture route; follow the interlining supplier's instructions rather than guessing a universal temperature.
- Cool and rest samples consistently; record measurements and same-light photographs without stretching the cloth.
- Agree bond assessment and care procedure with the garment team or laboratory; record handle, surface and dimensional changes together.
- Retain A, B and C with the approved panel, decision, date and approver. Repeat the trial when material lot or process changes.
Worked example
Illustrative trial: each length starts at 300 mm; B finishes at 294 mm and C at 291 mm after the same resting period. Losses are 2% and 3%. The contrast calls for checking the combination; it does not prove the adhesive alone caused the extra change. No acceptance limit is implied.
Buyer questions
Is a strong bond enough?
No. A bond can hold while the face becomes shiny, the front too rigid or the panel distorted. Approve bond and garment behaviour together.
Can the sample iron setting be copied to a press?
Not automatically. Equipment and actual contact conditions differ. Validate the production process rather than transfer a dial label.
Discuss the evidence with Fred Textile
Send Fred Textile the coating article, interlining identification, A/B/C record, photographs, intended care and panel design. Ask for suitable trial yardage and discuss fabric response with your garment maker; agree sample availability and any tests for the actual order.
Reference and limits
The reference concerns Vlieseline processing instructions. This approval worksheet is editorial guidance, not a recommendation of its products for a Fred Textile article, a universal fusing recipe or a laboratory report.
Vlieseline: processing and adhesion questions ↗